Some things really do get better with age. I have long joked that my hairline isn’t one of them, but I know one thing that is: My ability to understand cats better, and to build a stronger, more fulfilling bond with the felines in my life and in my practice.

Which is not to say that I haven’t always loved cats, and had them in my life. But on the Idaho dairy farm where I grew up, everyone had a job, and the cats were employed keeping mice and other vermin from taking over the place. Ours was a professional relationship, an admiration of coworkers.They did their jobs, and I did mine. Workplace romance was strictly limited to a little heavy petting now and then.

I’m no longer a farm boy, but I’m still more than a little bit country. Up here on our Almost Heaven Ranch, I still have barn cats, but they are much more than coworkers now. They’re family.

Feline Love: Breaking the Code

I’ve spent my life caring for and about animals, and I’ve always been a careful observer of what makes them happy. I know the “sweet spots” on every pet I’ve ever met, and since Almost Heaven is a horse ranch (with Quarter Horses whose personalities rival Golden Retrievers for sweetness), I know what makes equine hearts sing too.

But I also know if you hit the wrong note on many a cat, you won’t be singing a happy song for long. And while most cat owners eventually figure that out on their own, you could be one of those people whose current cat tolerates pretty much anything. Your next one, though, could be scratch-happy if you don’t know where to go.

Which is why I love sharing about caring, and in cats that means sticking to four top spots for heavy petting, and ignoring one spot that dogs love but that most cats never will.

Do Not Touch!

Are you ahead of me on the one spot most cats don’t like but most dogs do? If you guessed “belly rub,” you’re right! Why the difference? While dogs are generally pretty secure in their identity as a predator — even tiny dogs seem to imagine that they’re really big, scary wolves — cats have to be more careful when they’re on the prowl. That’s because they are very aware that they are both predator and prey. To a mouse, a cat is an effective killing machine. To a coyote, a cat is lunch.

What this means for a cat is that he’s always looking over his shoulder at what might be coming up behind him. When a cat is in a fight for his life, there’s no territory as important to protect as the belly, since that’s where all the vital organs are readily accessible. A touch there from a cat who hasn’t learned that you don’t mean any harm will trigger a defensive maneuver. Claws and teeth come out, even if they’re not fully engaged.

While some cats can learn to accept gentle belly rubs, others never will. Honestly, it’s probably better to stick to the spots cats do enjoy, even if your cat shows his belly all the time.

Scratch Here, Please

The places cats enjoy being petted are those where their scent glands are concentrated. When your cat rubs on you or the corner of your couch, it’s his chin and the head that make the contact. When a cat does that, he’s leaving his scent on the item (or person). Spreading his scent makes him happy and content, since it makes his environment smell familiar. (Synthetic versions of these pheromones — Feliway is the feline version — are great for helping cats get through stressful events such as moving or going to the veterinarian.)

When you pet a cat in these areas, you’re making him feel wonderfully content. And you’re also helping him to mark you with his special scent, which makes him even happier. So what are these hot spots?

• Base of the chin. Rub your cat gently along the underside of the chin, especially where the jawbone connects to the skull. You’ll likely get the purr-motor running hard, as your cat pushes into this pleasant caress.
• Base of the ears. Like the area underneath the chin, this spot is great for scent-marking. When your cat bumps his head against you — this is called “bunting” — he’s marking you as his own.
• Cheeks behind the whiskers. Hit this spot right and you can often get your cat to show his pleasure keenly by rotating his whiskers forward, as if to say, “More! More! Yeah, right there!”
• Base of the tail. I call this “Elevator Butt.” A gentle caress down the back with pressure at the base of the tail. Repeat, repeat, repeat!

Work your way through these kitty hot spots, and the love you share will only grow. You’ll have earned your tabby stripes as a cat whisperer, and your cat will love you for it.

When choosing a cat toy, whether homemade or store-bought, consider the following:

• Many items people think of as traditional kitten toys are also some of the most dangerous. String, ribbon, yarn and rubber bands are fun to play with, but potentially deadly if swallowed. And they are very easily swallowed because cats have tongues covered with rearward-facing barbs that make it hard for them to spit out string, yarn and similar things. Such long objects, if ingested, tend to travel lengthwise along the intestines. They can cause the intestine to scrunch up accordion-style, even turning in on itself like a sock. This is a life-threatening medical condition that usually requires surgery to correct.
• Fishing pole–type toys (a flexible stick with a line of string and a toy at the end) are lots of fun, but should be placed out of reach when you’re not there to supervise.
• Also be careful about toys you give your kitten that might have strings, yarn, ribbons, feathers or plastic eyes or ornaments on them. Many furry mice on the market had plastic eyes and noses glued on them. The kitten could chew these off and swallow them. If you buy these, pull the eyes and nose off before giving the toy to your kitten.
• With plush toys, avoid fillings such as polystyrene beads, nutshells or beans.
• Kittens like small plush toys they can carry around like pretend prey, and larger stuffed toys of about their own size they can pretend to fight.
• Remote-controlled battery mice are fun for both of you, but don’t leave any devices with batteries in them where your cat could possibly get the battery out.
• Kittens enjoy playing in paper bags, but be sure the bag is not where somebody could step on it not knowing a kitten was inside. Also, don’t let your kitten play with plastic bags, as kittens tend to chew and swallow the plastic.
• Balls and toys should not be small enough to be inhaled or swallowed. Ping pong or practice golf balls (the ones with holes in them) are a good size and weight for kittens. Place the balls in a captive area, such as in a bathtub, for maximum fun. Or put one in an empty tissue box so your kitten can fish for it.
• Kittens under 6 months of age do not seem to notice catnip, so wait until your kitten is older to introduce that.
• Your hand is not a toy. As enticing as it is to wiggle your fingers and have your kitten lunge for them, or to engage in a mock fight with your hand against your kitten, this is a bad practice that will have you looking like a victim of a cat attack as your cat grows. You won’t think this game is much fun once your kitten’s claws and teeth grow.

Whatever you use, play with your kitten.
Playtime strengthens the bonds between you that will hopefully last a lifetime!

Being a pet owner means being able to get your hands dirty — even if it’s just a wee bit. After all, every single one of us is responsible for our pets’ basic maintenance, including everything from feeding, bathing and brushing to exercising, toenail trimming and even doingdental duty.

But wait! That’s not all.

Along with a more modern conception of responsible ownership comes the requirement that we, as their caretakers, expand our definition of what’s considered “basic care.” Which is why pet owners are increasingly being expected to perform tasks that may once have been relegated to practitioners of the veterinary arts alone.

Consider the following additions to your at-home pet-care repertoire:

1. Remove and save parasites.

Everything from fleas and ticks to tapeworms and other nasties should be removed and, if identification is an issue, collected for analysis so we can tailor treatment to your pet’s parasitic infestations.

2. Collect bodily “fluids.”

Urine and stool are the basic “fluids” we might ask you to collect for us, but it’s not unheard of that we would ask you to bring in samples of sputum and vomitus, too (for example).

It’s yucky, I know, but here’s where I tell you to “get over it” for your pet’s sake. And consider yourself lucky if it’s just the occasional poop, pee and spit-up. After all, if it’s your lot to end up with a diabetic pet, routine blood collection might even be on your menu.

3. Take photos and films.

Sometimes it’s hard to collect stuff — if not because it’s gross, then because sometimes it’s uncollectable (think: too soft to scoop). Then there’s the need to document the intermittent limp, the occasional cough, the strange sneeze and the bizarre behavior that simply can’t be reproduced in the veterinary office. There’s nothing like knowing how to get a good video to endear you to your veterinarian.

4. Groom.

For plenty of pets, it’s not just about the simple snip and clip every four to 12 weeks. Some pets require more frequent ministrations (especially around the exits), which often involve the need for owners to learn how to wield clippers and wipes with near-professional aplomb.

5. Brush and floss.

Yes, all pets benefit from brushing, and some pets do require the occasional floss. Dogs with lots of dental crowding (especially common among dwarfed breeds) benefit most from this addition to their dental detail. Luckily, there are some cool new tools to help make this happen more efficiently.

6. Cook.

This is an increasingly common requirement for pets suffering from specific conditions for which treatment may be optimized by employing highly customized diets. But don’t trust that any diet you find online will be nutritionally balanced. Nutrition services like the one at the University of Tennessee School of Veterinary Medicine work with both veterinarians and their clients to devise recipes tailored to each pet’s unique health care needs.

7. Manage ears and skin folds.

Short-headed breeds of dogs and cats are especially prone to the kinds of issues that necessitate skin fold management, but any pet can be prone to ear and skin fold issues, especially those who suffer from food allergies. Learning how to properly manage ears and folds with solutions, salves and manual dexterity is crucial to many a pet’s basic welfare.

8. Perform pedicures.

No, not just a nail trim. Not even the fancy Dremel-drilling or occasional hand-filing. Pet pedicures are about more than just toenails, and plenty of pets can benefit from them, especially athletes who work their feet mercilessly or dogs whose allergic skin disease and/or excess poundage means lots of superficial foot infections (known as pododermatitis).

Soaking feet in a warm Epsom salt solution, shampooing between toes, massaging pads with Aquaphor or another humectant and possibly even learning how to apply toenail covers like Soft Paws (especially for older dogs who scuff their toenails raw or for cats as a humane alternative to declawing) are all variations on this theme.

9. Offer full-on tub soaks.

After a long run, challenging course or a field trial, some canine athletes might be best served by a nice warm soak in a tub. Geriatric pets and those with osteoarthritis are also excellent candidates for this kind of home care. Epsom salts are an especially nice addition to the mix here, too.

10. Learn advanced techniques in medication administration.

These days, it’s not enough to know how to hide a pill in peanut butter, deviled ham or cream cheese. The need for daily medication in an increasingly broad segment of the pet population means more owners have to learn how to instill eye drops, manage ear medications, apply ointments and even give injections.

But that’s not all. I’m sure I can come up with at least a few more tricks you might one day learn to pull from your sleeve should the trend toward advanced pet care continue along its current path.

The sight of a puppy trotting off with a sock in her mouth might seem adorable, but if your dog is a chronic object stealer, it’s not all that cute. Having Fido make off with the roast you cooked for Sunday dinner or your toddler’s favorite toy can be stressful for you — and dangerous for your dog.

Certain breeds — including Golden Retrievers,Yorkshire Terriers and Papillons — are more likely than their canine peers to steal your things. But no matter what breed your pooch is, it is important that you put a stop to her thefts before she winds up at the vet’s office with a tummy ache — or worse.

What Your Dog Wants

When your dog steals something, she wants to take possession of the object for any number of reasons. She may want to play with it, because she views the object as a toy. Clothing, shoes and children’s toys are favorite items for canine kleptomaniacs. These dogs may enjoy chewing the object, tearing it or just tossing it around. When a dog takes something that is not hers, she does not know she is stealing. She simply sees something she wants and goes for the object.

If your dog steals food, her motives are obvious. Even though she may be well fed, your dog may still have the urge to snack on people food. If she does, she will try to take anything you leave on the counter or table that smells good and is within her reach.

Some dogs steal because they long for your attention. They will take something just to prompt you to chase them. These dogs know what is important to you and they will grab the item just at the right time, so you see them do it. Their great hope is that you will follow in hot pursuit.

How to Respond

If your dog steals things to play with, it is best to provide her with her own objects to gnaw on. Until she gets into the habit of playing with her toys only, keep your laundry, shoes and children’s toys secure; store them somewhere she cannot reach. It is important that you keep your dog from swallowing objects that are not meant for eating. She may develop a blockage in the intestines that can require surgery.

If she steals food, be vigilant about keeping edibles out of reach. Do not leave food on kitchen counters or in easily opened cabinets. If your dog is a chronic food stealer, talk to your vet about possibly changing her diet to something she will find more satisfying. If it is the chase your dog is after, stop rewarding her stealing with what she perceives as a game. Instead, teach her to bring the object back to you by calling her and offering her a treat in exchange for the stolen item. Rather than steal your slippers, she may end up bringing them to you voluntarily in the end.

Though they seem independent, aloof and unpredictable, cats are creatures of habit. And yet, there’s no fathoming a cat. Why would one choose a small, cramped box, sink or cubbyhole over a more open space with all its possibilities?

For lots of reason.

Here are a few:

1. Smaller spaces are safer. Most cats who need to sleep deeply will seek out adenlike structure. A bathroom sink, as it turns out, seems more secure to a cat than a couch.
2. Wild cats require stealth for survival. So it is that hiding in small spaces helps cats be more successful.
3. If you’re about to give birth, a comfy hidey-hole is just the ticket. Momma catsare unlikely to birth their babies in places predators can see them.
4. Cats like to be warm. Small spots are quite simply cozier.

So it is that our seemingly self-sufficient pets seek comfort in ways we may think unusual for such independent creatures. But it makes sense: Even the more secure among us want a place to feel snug and sheltered. Even if it’s something as surprising as a soda pop box.

Many people find liquid medicines easier to administer than other types, such as pills, capsules, eye drops or injections. But it still takes patience, precision, and a bit of strength to get your dog to sit still and swallow the right amount. Here, how to make the medicine go down easier.

The Basics

Liquid medications are prescribed to treat a variety of conditions. Some medicines that are usually prescribed as pills or capsules can be changed, or compounded, to a liquid formulation for easier administration. If you have trouble giving your dog pills, ask your veterinarian if compounding is possible.

Follow Recommendations

It’s important to use only medicines prescribed by a veterinarian and to treat for the full length of time prescribed. Don’t stop treatment early, even if the problem seems to be resolved. You can ask your veterinarian to demonstrate how to give the medicine.

Technique

Liquid medications should come with a dropper or syringe for administration. Fill the dropper or syringe with the prescribed amount of medicine. Holding your dog’s head still with one hand, insert the tip of the dropper or syringe into a corner of the mouth, between the cheek and the teeth, aiming toward the back of your dog’s head.

• Do not tilt your dog’s head back; this may cause him to inhale the medicine. Squeeze the dropper or depress the syringe plunger to empty it.
• Hold your dog’s mouth closed and stroke his throat or blow on his nose to encourage swallowing.
• Reward your dog with a treat approved by your veterinarian.

Restraining Your Dog

You may need help keeping your dog still while you administer medicine. If you don’t have a helper handy, you may want to sit on the floor and hold the front of your dog’s body partially against your body or on your lap. If you have a large dog, you can stand behind your dog and have him sit back against your legs. Sometimes it helps to back your dog into a corner.

Small dogs can be wrapped in a large towel and held against your body, leaving only the head free. Be sure not to wrap your small dog too tightly.

If your dog struggles, talk to him calmly and stop administering the medicine if he becomes extremely agitated. Contact your veterinarian if you have questions or run into any problems.

Dogs often greet one another by sniffing — which makes sense when your ability to smell is 10,000 times better than a human’s. We all get that. But why does it have to be the butt, you ask?

Well, even the least smell-sensitive human can tell you that’s where a dog’s most intense aromas reside. In fact, there’s a pair of anal glands back there that secrete perhaps the most foul-smelling stuff you might occasionally have the displeasure to experience. So it’s perfectly normal.

Problem is, dogs often engage in this behavior enthusiastically, which can get them into trouble with other dogs who’d rather not have their butts smell tested. And, of course, it can also get them into trouble with humans who’d prefer that a dog not get so fresh with them. If your dog is an agressive sniffer, it is something you can take up with a certified animal trainer or behaviorist.

Most behaviors dogs practice today are rooted in their ancient, developmental history. In the early days of canines, food wasn’t always plentiful. After a successful hunt, a dog would bury whatever he didn’t consume to keep it from scavengers and even other members of her pack. When she became hungry again or prey was sparse, she would return to her “stash” to consume the leftovers.

Sometimes the problem was that the hunt was so successful there was too much food to be consumed at one meal. An ancestral urge led the dogs to bury their food for leaner times. The dirt also helped keep the food fresher by keeping it from direct sunlight.

You might wonder why your dog still practices this behavior when you deliver her kibble to her food bowl every day! Old habits die hard and even our domesticated canines still experience the natural instinct to hoard. In fact, many species in the animal kingdom regularly practice hoarding behaviors. Squirrels hide acorns, leopards hang their kill from trees for later consumption, and even humans stock their pantry with canned goods and non-perishables.

Your dog’s modified hoarding instinct is normal. But if her burying urge becomes obsessive, try to limit her toys and treats to one or two items. After all, she can only play with one toy and chew one bone at a time. Make sure she’s getting plenty of daily exercise and structured activities throughout the day to keep him healthy, happy, stimulated, and balanced!